Donnerstag, 13. August 2009

Knysna to Aliwal North

Yeah, today is a special day and so I update my travel blog once more. It's a long time ago, I haven't been to the internet and today I haven't much time either. I parked my bicycle full packed at the parcel store in the shoprite in Aliwal North and because today is pay day in SA the town is full of people, who for sure wouldn't mind a bicycle with some camping gear. So please understand when my spelling and grammar is worse than ever before. You will ask yourself: Is that even possible? Yes it is!!!
So let's go.... Last thursday I finally left Joy, her family, friends and lovely Rheenendal. I had a real great time there and enjoyed every second. All the people gave me great hospitality and it was a pleasure to meet them.
I headed north towards Uniondale and had a great cycle on a not too busy dirt road. I totally enjoyed the great landscape and couldn't reach Uniondale the same day. I told myself it's the heavy luggage and the climbs but I lost actually my good form of before. I can't explain myself why it shouldn't be good to eat 5 times a day and as much as possible. But it wasn't any problem and I got a great camp spot on a farm up in the hills. The family invited me in and served delicious rye bread, goat cheese, butter and everything selfmade. The next day I continued towards Avontuur, Uniondale and finally Willowmore. I had a nice day and enjoyed the night in a rainwater channel under the road. The following day I cycled to Aberdeen. I heard that my friend Marius from Cape Town is close on a farms property on a hunt. It wasn't too right. He was on a hunt but not on the farm near Graff Reinet but in Landsburg. So I hadn't to plan much more and slept once again under the bridge and kept myself warm with a small fire. The next day I reached Graff-Reinet with plenty of wind and made myself a nice day. I planned to visit the Valley of Desolation but because of the late hour and my way of transport it was to late. I decided to find a place to sleep along the dam but because I wasn't allowed to enter the road along the lake because of the Game farm I changed my plans, stocked up my food and headed out of town. Around 20 k's out of town I saw such a wonderful place up the hill that I had to stop and pitch my tent there. I enjoyed the great view on the fields with different plateous and made a not all to bad braai on my fire. The following day was going slow with all the head and side winds and I arrived around late afternoon in Middelburg. The cycle was great with two passes on the way and enjoyed the landscape a lot or heaps like Joy would say. I spent the night out of town on a field and cycled towards Steynsburg on the next day. There I saw per accident some Austrian flags and had a look. What I found was Johann, the Austrian Bakery Master, who owns now a small take away there. I had a nice talk with a man with a long and interesting history and headed out of town to sleep on a nearby field. I came back on the following day and planned to support his business where you can have all the delicious Austrian bakeries. We talked almost the whole day and I slept the night at his place. I left on the next day but he persisted that I don't have to pay all the snacks I enjoyed. I headed finally via Burgersdorp to Aliwal North, where I'm in the moment. Tomorrow I will hit the road towards Lesotho, where I will enjoy my next week before I return to South Africa and continue towards Swaziland and Mozambique.
Have a good time and hear of you soon guys!!!

Cape Town to Knysna

My dear friends,

It’s now 5 weeks ago that I started my Africa-Trip.
I’m sorry for all the unanswered e-mails you sent me but internet isn’t that easily accessible as in Asia. I will try to keep the contact going with you all whilst I’m on my travels.
Because I don’t want to spend all my time in the slow and not all to cheap internet cafes, I will update my travel blog in English only and hope it’s accessible for all which are interested in my travels.

Three weeks ago I started my cycle trip at the Cape of Good Hope. On the same day I cycled back to Cape Town, where I stayed another night at my friend Marius’ house who gave me a cozy home whilst I was in Cape Town. I wanted to start travelling the next day but because of the weather and the distance to my next destination I decided to start the day after. Marius’ father Cyril gave me a place to sleep at his flat because I locked myself out of Marius’ house. Cyril also helped me with the route through South Africa and the ongoing countries I will visit on my way back home. With a lot of advice, I cycled out of Cape Town and soon reached the coast where I got a good wind for the way to Hermanus, where I wanted to spend the night at Roger’s house. In the late afternoon the weather got windy and rainy and I was quite happy to be in a cozy house with a warm fire. We enjoyed the evening with Roger’s friend and had a nice braai. In the late evening Roger’s flat mate “The James” and Max joined us, with which I went up the hills to have view over the coastline and enjoy the cold but pretty star-studded sky. The next morning it was raining, so we had a chilled day and tasted the beers of a local brewery. I was a little bit disappointed and my friends quite excited over the taste of two special beers. We left and continued with our relaxed day. After the great Lasagne for supper I was ready to leave the next day. The day was as cold and wet as the day before but I didn’t want to waste my day waiting around for better weather. “The James” equipped me with a helmet and some sewing needles and I started my journey hoping to reach Swellendam by evening, which didn’t work out as planned. The weather was changing often and I got some rain which made me feel cold and uncomfortable. Looking like a poor equipped cycler searching for warmer weather I got the pity of a passing construction worker and added a rain jacket to my travel gear. In the afternoon I reached Bredasdorp where stocked some food and cycled out of town looking for a dry and safe place to pitch my tent for the first time. I found a nice spot on a field and made myself a place to sleep. It didn’t take long till I was lying in my sleeping bag, trying to get myself warm again. The night was alright and I headed after some breakfast to Swellendam. There I stocked up on some food, wasted my time in a slow internet cafe and got more money from the ATM. Some guys tried to mug me and I fled out of town. I cycled to Suurbraak and up the pass towards Barrydale. It was already getting late and I needed a safe place to sleep but wasn’t sure where to find somewhere on that narrow mountain road. Finally I found a great flat spot hidden by some bushes where I pitched my tent. The night was much more comfortable and it was great to wake up to bright sunshine. It didn’t take long to get to Barrydale, where I contacted my friends and met per accident a German, who invited me into his house. After some lunch and a lot of stories I left and tried to do some necessary kilometers. In Ladismith I asked for a safe place to sleep but the nice lady got mad when I explained to her that I was not looking for an official campground in a country of such abundant space. I left with a smile and went have a look for myself. 10 Kilometers out of town I found a nice spot on a farmer’s property next to the road. I had a great night but somehow it felt cold outside, and after I found the way out of the warm sleeping bag, I soon discovered why…I had to scratch all the early morning frost off my tent before I could dismantle it . The morning was cool but it was a wonderful day and it was good fun to cycle surrounded by so many mountains. I passed Calitzdorp and Oudtshoorn and continued back towards the coast. The narrow road heading to George was quite scary as the cars passing me drove far to close. After a couple of hours I had had enough and wanted to call it a day, but it was not too easy to find an open spot in that area. Every piece of land is fenced and locked with a big gate. I didn’t see a farm, and too tired to jump a fence or even continue. Needing a safe place I decided push on down to a small village and ask for somewhere to stay. I met some coloured guys and asked to camp outside their house, but they sent me away to town to ask there. I got sick of searching so set up my tent on the lawn next to the entrance of the village. Quite sure that I didn’t have the best nor safest place, I kept my camp dark, ate in the dark and dismantled my tent before sunrise and left. The following day I feared for my life yet again, due to all the crazy and useless car drivers, and reached George by late morning after a 10 km downhill ride. With some more useful directions I ended up on the old George to Knysna road which brought me mostly by myself all the way to Rheenendal. On the way I met another cycling couple, who were on their way from Cape Town to Port Elizabeth. In the nice area of Rheenendal I met Joy, another contact of Couchsurfing, who gave me a home for the next bit of my journey. After the great pleasure of a shower we headed straight to Joy’s old school friends birthday party. This one made me cry and ask why my parents never organized such a nice party for me?! Anyway after great food and meeting a lot of nice people we went back home and had a good night’s sleep. What can I say, the days and weeks passed, I met Joy’s family, more friends, two German couchsurfers, we visited birthday parties, went swimming in freezing water and spent rainy days in the house next to a cozy fire, and I’m still here. I really enjoy the countryside and silence of Rheenendal but life goes on and soon I have to leave.
I’m already counting the fifth week in South Africa, met a lot of lovely people and have really enjoyed my days here. The next weeks plans are to cycle up to Lesotho, freeze my ass off with my dodgy equipment, continue to Swaziland and then head onto Mozambique. It will take me at least four weeks to leave the cold behind and enter the warmer coastal area of Africa.
I wish you all the best and look forward to hearing from you all soon.
Have a good one and enjoy!!!